The Right Way to Upgrade Two-Prong Outlets

When performing a home inspection on an older home, the inspectors at HomePro Inspections often encounter ungrounded two-prong outlet receptacles or ungrounded three-prong outlet receptacles. If it's a two-prong outlet, we will usually discuss with our client that it is ungrounded. If we find a three-prong outlet that is ungrounded (does not have a ground wire), we mark this as a defect needing correction.

Two-prong and 3-prong outlets

 Code changes

The National Electrical Code (NEC) has continuously reviewed the evolution of electrical development and installation to establish safety standards since the publication of the first edition of codes in 1897. An update to the code in 1947 required that circuits supplying electricity to laundry appliances had to be grounded. In 1956, an additional code change mandated that grounding was required for basements, porches, and other exterior areas where the potential for ground contact was likely. Requirements for the grounding of kitchen sink receptacles were added in 1959, and in 1962, a code update mandated the grounding of all outlets. Since then, codes have continued to evolve, and the safety of our home’s electrical systems has improved dramatically.

 Older Homes

We have many older homes here in Southeast Minnesota, and most of these homes have the older two-wire systems, where one wire is hot (ungrounded) and the other is common (grounded). The hot wire brings electricity to the electrical appliance or device, and the neutral wire returns electricity to the electrical panel. 

 Older homes will have two-prong outlets, which only have the hot and the neutral wire. Back in the mid- to late-60s, when appliances started providing chords with three-prongs, it was common for people to swap out their old two-pronged outlets with three-prong outlets.

 This was a quick and easy fix; however, it was an unsafe fix. The problem is that even though it looks like a grounded three-prong outlet, there is no ground wire in these old homes. The house I grew up in had two-prong outlets. I remember that around 1970, when my dad was doing some remodeling, we went through and installed three-prong outlets everywhere in the house. He was tired of having to find a “cheater” every time he wanted to plug in an appliance with a three-prong cord into a two-prong outlet.

 “Cheater plug”

 The Ground Wire

What exactly is a ground wire? The ground wire is used to ‘bond’ all metal non-current-carrying components back to the main panel. If a ground fault occurs, this wire will direct or carry the electrical flow back to the main panel, allowing a fuse to break or a circuit breaker to trip. An ungrounded outlet has no path back to the panel and may result in an electrical shock.

 How do you upgrade a two-prong outlet to a three-prong outlet?

As we have seen in many older homes, people simply replaced the old two-prong outlet with a new three-prong outlet. However, addressing the lack of a ground wire to the third prong requires further attention.

 One option is to completely rewire the house, removing the older two-wire system and replacing it with a new three-wire system. Unless you're doing a complete remodel of the house, however, this is an extremely expensive and cost-prohibitive task.

 The National Electrical Code provides more cost-effective options for replacing old two-prong outlets other than rewiring or running a separate ground.

 2017 Code Language:

406.4(D)(2) Non–Grounding-Type Receptacles. Where attachment to an equipment grounding conductor does not exist in the receptacle enclosure, the installation shall comply with (D)(2)(a), (D)(2)(b), or (D)(2)(c).

 (a) A non-grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with another non-grounding-type receptacle(s).

 (b) A non-grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a ground-fault circuit interrupter-type of receptacle(s). These receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “No Equipment Ground.” An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter-type receptacle to any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter receptacle.

 (c) A non-grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a grounding-type receptacle(s) where supplied through a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Where grounding-type receptacles are supplied through the ground-fault circuit interrupter, grounding-type receptacles or their cover plates shall be marked “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground,” visible after installation. An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the grounding-type receptacles.

 Informational Note No. 1: Some equipment or appliance manufacturers require that the branch circuit to the equipment or appliance includes an equipment grounding conductor.

 Informational Note No. 2: See 250.114 for a list of cord-and-plug-connected equipment or appliances that require an equipment grounding conductor.

 Evaluating Your Options

Option A states that you can replace your old 2-prong outlets with new 2-prong outlets. This does not add additional protection or functionality to your electrical system, but the new outlets will look, well, new.

 Options B and C are very similar, and they add GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) protection to those circuits.

Basically, if there is GFCI protection on those circuits, the NEC permits upgrading old two-prong outlets to three-prong outlets without adding a ground wire and by appropriately labeling those circuits as "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground."

Summary

The ground wire is the most critical safety feature of your home’s electrical system, but there are code-approved options if you want to upgrade your old two-prong outlets to three-prong outlets. We recommend that you contact a reputable licensed electrician for options on how to make these upgrades. In the end, you want your home and family to be safe.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Is It Time to Upgrade Your Home's Thermostat?

Home thermostats have become more technologically advanced than they were a few years ago. Growing up, everyone had the little round Honeywell thermostat in their home. This simple little mechanical device that relied strictly on a mercury switch is ancient compared to the advanced, programmable smart thermostats available today. HomePro Inspections would like to share the advantages of today’s plethora of smart technology that you can use to manage the efficiency of your home’s heating and cooling systems, as well as the cost-saving benefits they offer.

 A home thermostat with intelligent technology

 I recently had a new furnace and heat pump combination installed in my home. I figured my Nest thermostat would handle the new system, but the technician said that even though Nest states that it will run a system with a heat pump, they're typically problematic. With that in mind, I had a new thermostat installed that matched up with the new system. 

 Much like my Nest thermostat, the new one is Wi-Fi capable and can tie into my home monitoring system. In addition to controlling heating and cooling, it also has the function of running the humidifier. This is nice because I don't have to mess with two separate control units to keep the humidity under control in the wintertime.

 Upgrading to a smart thermostat is a minor change that can provide many benefits, including energy efficiency, reduced heating and cooling costs, and increased comfort in your home. The following are some considerations regarding whether or not you should update your home’s thermostat.

 Convenience

You can control smart thermostats either at the control panel or remotely using your smartphone. This makes it possible to control your home’s temperature, no matter where you are. Using the thermostat app, you can adjust your home's temperature when you are away. The primary reason for this convenience is also to provide a consistently comfortable environment in your home.

 It is also important that I can monitor my home’s temperature when I am traveling and make adjustments according to changes in the weather.

 Efficiency

The potential to increase the energy efficiency of heating and cooling your home is one of the most compelling reasons to upgrade a thermostat. The old mercury switch-style thermostats do not have the technology to efficiently keep temperatures stable. They tend to lag and overshoot their set points. Programmable thermostats allow you to program and customize your heating and cooling based on your family's lifestyle. These newer thermostats can also monitor and learn your habits, thus increasing efficiency.

 With energy efficiency comes cost savings. Optimizing your heating and cooling schedules can greatly reduce your energy consumption and save you money. Energy-efficient thermostats have the potential to save you between 10% and 15% on your heating and cooling costs. Reducing your energy usage also has a huge impact on our environment.

 Summary

With the technology available, you can positively impact the environment, save money on your heating and cooling costs, and make your home energy efficient and more comfortable for you and your family. The money you save by installing a new thermostat will outweigh the initial cost of upgrading.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

What Does “At or Near End of Its Lifespan” Mean?

Occasionally, during a home inspection, the inspectors at HomePro Inspections come across something that, despite being functional, is at or near the end of its lifespan. So, precisely what does that mean? How do we explain it, and what should a homebuyer do with that information?

 A furnace near the end of its lifespan

 What does “end of lifespan mean”?

Our standard of practice requires us to report on things near the end of their service life. Various home inspectors may say it differently, but it means the same thing. Everything in a home has a life expectancy. Nothing lasts forever. We commonly use this phrase when it comes to appliances such as heating systems, water heaters, air conditioners, or roofing and exterior components.

 I wrote a blog post in December 2023 discussing standard life expectancies. That blog shares a chart from internachi.org that shows almost every component of your home, as well as the average standard life expectancy.

 Over the years, as a homeowner, I've replaced roofs that had 30-year shingles that only lasted 19 years and “new” furnaces in as little as eleven years. And then there’s the opposite: I recently purchased a property that has a furnace and air conditioner that are 25 years old. They’re well past their life expectancy, but they’re still working just fine.

 About 10 to 15 years ago, I inspected a home built in 1953. It still had the original furnace. This was a pre-listing home inspection for an estate sale, and the daughter told me that her father was an engineer and took great pride in keeping that furnace running all those years. Although it was running quite well, it was probably only about 10% efficient. The daughter informed me that they planned to replace it with a new system. 

 How do I use this information?

If your home inspector documents that some component of your home is at the end of its lifespan, they are making that comment based on standard average life expectancies. This statement contains information that you can use when making a decision about your home. This is not an action item that necessitates replacement.

 A good example would be an older water heater. I might document that it was near the end of its lifespan, but I would also explain to the client that it's not leaking, it's not rusty, it has a nice flame, and the burn chamber is not all corroded. Knowing that it is old, I would start to budget for its replacement sometime down the road.

 Should you use this information in your negotiations?

It would be best if you discussed this with your real estate professional. It's probably not a good idea to ask for something to be replaced simply because it's old. If you're buying an older home, there will be a wide range of components that are at various stages of life. Your best bet is to buy a home warranty for your new home. If something breaks or fails during the policy period, it may be eligible for a complete replacement.

 Summary

We want you to understand that home inspectors lack the ability to predict how long a given appliance or component may continue to perform its function. That’s why we carefully inspect your home, and if something is “at or near end of its lifespan,” we make a note so you have the information you need to make future decisions.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Oh No, I Have a Water Leak!

Discovering a water leak in your home and dealing with the repairs and cleanup can be a highly stressful event. Whether the water leak is due to a burst pipe, a failed pipe fitting, or a slow leak from a sink, toilet, tub, water heater, or appliance, you’re facing a situation that requires immediate action and thorough remediation. The professionals at HomePro Inspections have a few suggestions they would like to share with you if and when you face a water leak problem.

 After the initial shock, it’s common for folks to grab a bucket and go into damage control, but it can be a challenge to know what to do first or where to start. As bad as the situation may initially appear, there are a few courses of action you can take to help get you through the process and minimize the problem as much as possible.

 Let’s start by assessing what type of water leak you may have.

 Low-Damage, Low-Cost Water Leak

These types of water leaks usually don’t cause damage, but they can be inconvenient and can cost you time, money, and energy to locate the source. There’s an obvious water leak somewhere, and it’s wasting water, increasing your water and sewer bill. Perhaps it’s the sprinkler system, the water softener, or a rarely used toilet. The water leak may be difficult to pinpoint, but you can hear water running in the pipes somewhere in your home.

 Water Meter

 Where to Start

·        Check and shut off all hose bibs, interior faucets, showers, and sprinkler systems. 

Turn off all faucets or valves connected to the water system. Once you’ve done that, if you still hear water running, you need to systematically search for the source of the water leak. This can take some time and vary in complexity, depending on your home.

 ·        Locate and check your water meter.

After shutting off the water sources, locate and check your water meter. Water meters vary, so you may see something like an odometer. Some water meters have small dials, or icons, that will indicate low flow. Learn more about how to read a water meter here. If the indicator indicates flow, you still have a water leak somewhere in your home.

 ·        Shut off the water supply to your toilets.

Water leaks from toilets are typically the most common source of non-damaging water leaks. When checking multiple toilets, turn off the water source for each one separately, and then check the flow indicator on your water meter. If the indicator has stopped after shutting off a particular toilet, you’ve found the culprit. If the indicator still shows a low flow, there’s still a water leak.

 ·        Shut down all other water-using appliances.

One by one, shut off the water supply to any appliances or devices that use water. Continue checking as you did with the toilets until you find the water leak. If the water leak is still undetectable, maybe it’s time to call your favorite plumber.

 Moderate-Damage, Moderate-Cost Water Leaks

Whether they’re unnoticed or ignored, moderate-damage water leaks can result in significant damage. It could be a small water leak next to a shower stall, a drip from the dish washer or sink, or a wet spot on the basement ceiling. While these types of leaks don’t look all that severe on the surface, they could be developing into a much bigger and more serious problem in the walls or ceilings.

 Water leak at the basement ceiling and wall

It should go without saying: if you notice a new water leak, deal with it right away! Repeated and continuous water leaks, even if they appear to be small, typically don’t go away on their own. Ignoring them can be a big, and costly, mistake.

 Where to Start

·        Turn off the water source.

Check to see if there’s a water valve at the source that can stop the leak. If there is no valve, you need to shut off the main water valve.

 ·        Clean up the mess immediately.

If you catch a water leak soon enough, the mess may be minimal, but you should clean it up immediately. Failure to dry up a water leak can result in mold or mildew. Disinfect the area if possible, and get a fan and/or dehumidifier going as soon as you can.

 If any organic growth has started, be conscientious and take precautions to minimize spreading mold spores throughout your home. Protect yourself by wearing the appropriate protective clothing if you are to handle anything that may be dangerous. As my dad used to say, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

·        Resolve the leak at its source.

Determine exactly where the water leak originates. Replace or fix whatever is leaking, and make sure that any damaged or corroded components are replaced. Take the time to analyze other components that may be suspect or waiting to be your next water leak.

 Split water line

 Significant-Damage, Significant-Cost Water Leaks

Most homeowners may never have a water leak that fits into this category. These types of water leaks can be catastrophic and result in tremendous damage to your home. Frozen or burst water lines have the potential to pump hundreds of gallons of water into your home in a short amount of time. Immediate attention is required when this type of water leak is discovered.

 Basement water leak

 Where to Start

·        Turn off the main water valve.

Everyone old enough to understand should know where the main water valve is located in their home. Shut it off immediately. If the water leak is located before the main water valve, call a plumber or your city water utility company immediately. You may also want to turn off any electrical circuits in the affected area to prevent electrocution.

 ·        Document the damage.

Before you do anything else, document everything by taking photos and videos of the damage. Again, turn off any electrical circuits that may pose an electrocution hazard. Thorough documentation will go a long way towards minimizing your losses when working with your insurance company.

 ·        Contact your insurance company.

As soon as possible, contact your insurance company to report the damage. They need to know about the water issue, and they may be able to guide you to the appropriate actions and sources for remediation.

 Start the cleanup process, but don’t make any significant changes before the insurance company has had a chance to assess the damage. Ask them for directions, and make sure you wear rubber boots, gloves, and any other protective clothing and gear needed to minimize any chance of injury.

 Summary

Take immediate action if you notice a water leak in your home. Knowing the extent of a water leak and quickly mitigating the damage is an important first step.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained and always look for past or active water leak issues when inspecting a home. Any issues are documented and recommended for resolution by a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, send us an email, or utilize our online “Schedule Now” feature to set up an appointment.

Understanding Radon Gas - Where It Comes From, and What to Do About It

What is radon gas?

Radon gas is a naturally occurring byproduct produced by the breakdown of radium in the soils under and around your home. It is colorless, tasteless, and has no smell. Testing for radon gas is the only way to know if you have it in your home, and HomePro Inspections can provide thorough radon testing.

 Radon gas is considered a carcinogen by the World Health Organization (WHO). The United States EPA considers exposure to radon gas a health risk and has classified it as the number one cause of lung cancer in nonsmokers. Smokers who are exposed to radon gas are significantly more likely to develop lung cancer. You can refer to the EPA’s “A Citizens Guide to Radon” for more information.

 What is the source of radon gas?

Uranium is found in soils across most of North America. In some areas, concentrations of uranium are high due to geology and glacial deposits. Over time, uranium breaks down and decays, eventually becoming radium. As radium breaks down and decays, it gives off radon gas. Radon gas naturally rises to the surface through gaps and cracks in the soil. If you really want to dig into the uranium decay chain and how it becomes radon gas, follow this link.

The EPA has developed a map that represents the general radon zones, based on studies on the dangers of radon gas and the effects of exposure. As you can see, radon gas levels vary across the United States.

 How does radon gas get into my home?

The soil under and around our homes can contain varying levels of radiation. Radon gas can inevitably enter our homes through gaps and cracks in the basement foundations and floor slabs. The higher the concentration and the types of soils under your home, the greater the risk that you will have higher levels of radon gas within the home.

 Compared to new construction, homes built before 2000 tend to be quite drafty, and people are less likely to use basements as living spaces. New homes, built to be more energy-efficient and resistant to air leakage, now pose a greater risk of higher radon gas levels.

 The photo below is from the EPA‘s “A Citizens Guide to Radon.”

 How do I know what the radon gas levels are in my home?

By testing. Testing for radon gas is a simple and relatively inexpensive first step in determining if you have elevated radon gas levels in your home. Testing involves placing a radon measurement device in your home for at least 48 hours. We will conduct this testing under "closed conditions," which means we will close all windows and doors 12 hours before and during the testing period. You are welcome to come and go as usual, but for the majority of the testing period, we'll assume it's winter and keep the doors and windows closed.

 What if the radon gas levels are high in my home?

The EPA recommends installing a radon mitigation system in homes that measure 4.0 pCi/L (picocuries per liter). Radon mitigation systems vary depending on your home, foundation type, and radon gas measurement level. A radon mitigation company can design a system that will reduce your home’s radon gas levels, typically below 1.0 pCi/L. Just for reference, ambient radon gas levels are considered to be around 0.4 pCi/L.

 In Summary

More than 50% of the homes in Olmsted and surrounding counties have unsafe elevated levels of radon gas. Testing for radon gas is easy and is the first step in protecting your family. Once you know the radon gas levels in your home, you can decide on the best system to mitigate the radon gas if the levels are high.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Fire Hazards from Dryer Vents

The 2020 National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) statistics show that there are between 15,000 and 17,000 fires every year in the United States due to clothes washers and dryers. Clothes dryer fires injure around 380 people and are responsible for around 50 deaths per year. The leading cause (34%) of these fires is a failure to clean or replace defective dryer vents. During home inspections, our HomePro Inspections professionals have found many dryer vents that are plugged, damaged, use improper materials, or are improperly installed.

 My personal story.

Several years ago, long before I became a home inspector, my wife complained that our dryer was starting to take way too long to dry clothes. Sometimes it would take two cycles to dry jeans. She wanted a new dryer. I thought to myself, “This home is only two years old; how can the dryer be giving us problems already?” I did some troubleshooting and found the problem; the dryer was fine, but the dryer vent was completely clogged with lint.

 In my previous homes, the dryer was on an outside wall, less than a foot from the exterior. In this new 2-year-old home, the dryer was in the middle of the main floor. The dryer vent entered the wall, turned downward to the basement, turned horizontal for about 8 feet, turned horizontal again, and ran about 20 feet to where it exhausted to the exterior.

 I disassembled the dryer vent and cleaned it with a dryer vent brush. The result was about one and a half five-gallon pails full of lint. Needless to say, the dryer started to work perfectly. With this in mind, we clean the vent annually.

 The use of improper materials is a problem.

During our home inspections, we often encounter various issues that can contribute to a potential dryer fire, with improper venting materials at the top of the list.

 What is the proper dryer vent ducting material? According to the Minnesota Mechanical Code (504.6), “Exhaust ducts for domestic clothes dryers shall be constructed of metal and shall have a smooth interior finish...  and shall be a minimum nominal size of 4 inches (102mm) in diameter.”

 At the hardware or big box store, you will find a wide selection of dryer venting products. While some appear capable of doing the complete job of venting a dryer, their main function is to create transition pieces, not the entire run from the dryer to the exterior of the home.

 One kind is a “slinky-type” tube of shiny mylar material. This product can be problematic because the inner surface is corrugated (rough interior finish) and does not allow for smooth airflow. The disrupted airflow typically results in accumulated lint and eventual plugging. 

 Another product is a stretchable, flexible aluminum tube. Like the shiny mylar material, this tubing also has a rough interior finish that is susceptible to lint accumulation and plugging.

 Damaged or crushed materials will cause big problems.

The lightweight construction of the flexible tubing discussed above makes it susceptible to damage. During home inspections, we frequently discover crushed or torn venting materials behind dryers.

 Remember, these materials are meant to be used to create short transition pieces. In a situation where two metal dryer pipes don't match up, you can use one of these materials to connect them. Unfortunately, these products come in packages that contain several feet of material. Most of the time, however, instead of cutting the needed length for the transition, people just connect the ends and leave an 8-foot “anaconda” stuffed behind their dryer.

Summary

You, as a homeowner, can do your part to prevent a dryer fire from occurring in your home by performing proper installation, cleaning, and maintenance. Even if your dryer seems to be running fine right now, it’s better to be safe than sorry.

 Use only UL-approved materials, use them properly, and follow your local codes when replacing dryer vents.

 Clean the lint trap in your dryer after every load, and occasionally check the dryer vent exhaust on the exterior of your home to remove any lint or buildup. Pay attention to dryer cycle times. And, most importantly, have your dryer vents cleaned at least once annually to ensure the entire vent system is clean and lint-free.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Do You Have a Tripped GFCI?

 There’s no power to any of the outlets in all your bathrooms at the same time. The fans still work, and the vanity lights work, but none of the outlets have power. What’s going on?

 This can happen on occasion and can certainly be a concern, especially if everyone is getting ready for school or work at the same time.

 Understanding your home’s electrical system and how the electrical code requires bathrooms to be wired can help. Luckily, there is usually a simple explanation and fix for this scenario that the professionals at HomePro Inspections would like to share with you.

 The basic electrical requirements for bathrooms.

In short, the International Code Council requires protection in bathrooms to prevent electrical shock. Electrical outlets in bathrooms must be on their own 20-amp circuit and protected by a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). If you're unfamiliar with a GFCI, it's a specially designed outlet that aids in preventing electrocution. You can learn more about how a GFCI works here.

 The bathroom circuit only needs to have one GFCI outlet or breaker to protect all of the bathrooms. This simplifies things for the electrician but can be confusing to a homeowner. See the image below for a better understanding.

 Finding and checking the GFCI.

A tripped GFCI typically causes a loss of power in a bathroom. Knowing which bathroom, the GFCI is located in is helpful in case you need to reset it.

 Often, the electrician will install the GFCI in the master bathroom or the most commonly used bathroom. This isn’t always the case, however. Occasionally, the electrician installs it in a spot that is most convenient for them.

An orange or red light may glow on the GFCI outlet, indicating that the circuit has been tripped. The reset button will pop out. Simply press the button to reset the GFCI. You have successfully solved the problem and will be regarded as a hero by your family. Great Job!

 If you can’t identify the problem, there are other factors to consider.

If a GFCI in one of the bathrooms hasn’t tripped but the power is still off, you have a bit of detective work to do. Check every bathroom, because, at times, a previous homeowner may have installed a GFCI at every outlet. While this may sound like a good idea, multiple GFCIs are unnecessary. Only the first outlet on the circuit requires a GFCI device.

 When they first started using GFCIs, there was typically one circuit that tied the garage, bathroom(s), and exterior outlets together. If the GFCI is not in a bathroom, it may be in the garage.

 As with all things, GFCIs are also prone to failure. Over time, exposure to high moisture, such as hot, steamy showers or high outdoor humidity, may cause a GFCI to not reset after tripping. A GFCI that doesn’t reset will have to be replaced. 

 You may also have to check the electrical panel.

If you can't locate a tripped GFCI, it's possible that the bathroom breaker in the panel has tripped. Hopefully, during installation, the installer correctly labeled your breakers.

 If you find a tripped breaker, you can reset it by flipping the switch to the off position and then back to the on position. If it resets, you should have power back to the bathroom circuit.

 In newer homes, there’s a chance there are no GFCI outlets in any of the bathrooms. The GFCI may be part of the breaker itself. In this case, you will see a yellow button next to the switch on the 20-amp bathroom breaker. The yellow button is the test button. If the breaker has tripped, you must reset the breaker as previously described.

 During the home inspection, we test and reset all GFCIs and evaluate the electrical panel. Your home inspector will describe the basics of the GFCIs, the types of breakers in your panel, and what they do.

 If all else fails, call a professional electrician.

If there’s no power to any of the bathroom outlets, but the panel has power, you’ve checked every outlet, and no breakers have tripped, it’s time to call a professional electrician. When solving the problem and fixing it are outside of your skill set, an electrician can do the required and proper testing, repairs, and replacement of defective outlets and breakers.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Are Carbon Monoxide Alarms Required in My Home?

The simple answer is “yes.” Currently, Minnesota Statue 299F.50 states, “Every single-family dwelling and every dwelling unit in a multifamily dwelling must have an approved and operational carbon monoxide (CO) alarm installed within ten feet of each room lawfully used for sleeping purposes.” Newer construction homes typically have alarms installed in the appropriate locations. The inspectors at HomePro Inspections, however, have heard many misconceptions and misunderstandings surrounding the use of CO alarms in existing homes. Let me explain.

 Carbon Monoxide

Combustible (fuel-fired) appliances in your home generate carbon monoxide (CO), an odorless, tasteless, and invisible gas. Low exposure levels to carbon monoxide can make you feel tired or sick, while higher levels of exposure can result in death. 

 Individuals with the highest risk of carbon monoxide exposure are the elderly, unborn babies, and small children. People with respiratory problems, heart conditions, anemia, and immunity issues are also at a higher risk of death due to exposure to carbon monoxide.

 The Difference Between Carbon Monoxide (CO) and Carbon Dioxide (CO2)

One carbon atom and one oxygen atom make up carbon monoxide, hence the designation CO. People often incorrectly refer to carbon monoxide as CO2. CO2 is carbon dioxide, which has one carbon atom and two oxygen atoms. CO2 is the gas we exhale. It is also used to make pop and other beverages fizzy. Remember, carbon monoxide is abbreviated as CO. Our home inspectors can discuss this difference at your home inspection.

 CO Alarm versus CO Detector

A CO alarm, the device typically placed in a home, has its own power source and sounds an alarm that alerts inhabitants to elevated CO levels. A CO detector is basically the same type of device, but it may or may not include an audible alarm function.

 A CO detector is a common tool a home inspector uses to determine if furnaces, water heaters, fireplaces, etc., potentially leak CO into the living space. We also use a device to measure the air-free carbon monoxide levels in your furnace discharge vent to detect potential combustion issues, such as a cracked heat exchanger.

 Minnesota Carbon Monoxide Codes and Statutes

Minnesota Carbon Monoxide Codes and Statutes

There’s a lot of code language involved, so let me summarize the basics. A device must be

·         listed in accordance to UL 2034.

·         installed in new homes that utilize fuel-fired appliances.

·         installed when there’s an attached garage with an opening to the living space.

·         added to existing homes when listed additions, alterations, or repairs are made.

·         located on every level and within 10 feet of sleeping areas.

·         located within the sleeping area if a fuel-fired appliance is present.

Also,

·         Combination smoke/CO alarms are acceptable.

·         Unless retrofitting, an alarm must be hardwired.

If you have multiple alarms, you must interconnect them, unless you are retrofitting

 Carbon Monoxide Alarms

Again, this is just a summary. Read the full carbon monoxide code requirements and statutes:

·         You can find Minnesota’s carbon monoxide code requirements here:

·         Section R315 of the MN Residential Code.

·         The Minnesota carbon monoxide statutes can be found here:

·         Sections 299F.50 and 299F.51

·         For additional EPA guidance regarding carbon monoxide alarms, click on the following:

·         What about carbon monoxide detectors?

·         Where should I place a carbon monoxide detector?

 Summary

Tragically, the absence of carbon monoxide alarms continues to cause deaths every year. These devices are easy to acquire and install, and they are required to help keep us alive. For your family's safety, ensure you have them properly installed and replaced if they are old or not functioning. Check your carbon monoxide alarms to ensure they are not past their service life. Our home inspectors will recommend replacing your carbon monoxide alarms if they are more than 7 years old. Manufacturers recommend 7 to 10 years.

 Also, be aware of the warning signs of carbon monoxide poisoning, such as headaches, dizziness, feeling sick, and/or lack of energy. Low levels of carbon monoxide in small areas may cause these symptoms in some people before the alarm alerts them to a bigger problem.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Do I Need to Test for Radon If I Have a Passive Radon System in My Home?

When it comes to radon mitigation systems, it is important for you to know if the system in your home is passive or active. If you have concerns about whether or not your home’s system is properly reducing radon levels, the professionals at HomePro Inspections want you to know that radon testing is the only way to make that qualified determination.

 Since 2009, Minnesota has required that all new homes be built to be radon-resistant. New home construction must use techniques and materials to help reduce or prevent radon from entering the home. A passive system relies on the natural upward thermal flow of sub-slab air and soil gases through a pipe to the home's exterior.

 What is a passive radon mitigation system?

A passive system starts with a perforated tile system set in permeable soil, such as gravel or pea rock, which is covered and sealed with plastic before the concrete floor is poured. Typically, a three- or four-inch PVC pipe vents the system. The PVC pipe extends from beneath the concrete slab, up through the house and attic space, to the exterior of the home. Based on the thermal stack effect, the system will naturally draw air upward. The home acts as a vacuum on the soil due to internal and external temperature differences. There are many factors, including weather, storms, winds, barometric pressure, type of construction, and so on, but that’s another discussion best left for another time.

 Why would my passive radon system not be enough?

Radon, a radioactive gas that is generated from the naturally occurring process of uranium decay, is found everywhere in Minnesota. Generally, a home with a passive radon system experiences high radon readings due to three factors. They include pressure differences between the inside and outside of the house, the way radon enters the house through the soil, and the soil's actual radon level.

 On occasion, the construction process unintentionally obstructs a system. An unobstructed system is critical for adequate and consistent airflow under the slab.

 To help understand variations in radon levels, I’ll use my house, a one-story slab on grade in 2017, as an example. I oversaw the installation of the passive radon system and can confirm it was done correctly. After living in my home for a few months, I tested the radon gas levels, and they came in at an average reading of 3.2 pCi/l to 3.8 pCi/l, depending on the season. This is pretty close to the EPA action level of 4.0 pCi/l.

 Does this imply that the construction of my home's passive radon system was incorrect? No. It means that the emanation of radon gas from the soils below my home is greater than what the passive system can handle. I’m sure there are cold and windy winter days where the average is above 4.0 pCi/l.

 The question that begs to be asked is whether a system is working well enough. In my example, the radon measurements are below 4.0 pCi/l, so some may say yes, the system is working as designed. However, some may answer no because the radon average measures pretty close to 4.0 pCi/l. If experience has taught us anything, it’s that even the best-designed and installed passive system may not be adequate to remove radon gas from all homes in Minnesota.

 Summary

A passive radon mitigation system does not always guarantee that your home is safe from dangerous radon gas levels, and the only way to accurately determine the radon levels in your home is to have it tested. HomePro Inspections employs the licensed and certified professionals necessary to guarantee accurate radon testing and adherence to all testing protocols.

At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Your home inspection report documents any issues found and recommends their resolution by you or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. Contact us today at (507) 202-8942, by email, or by using our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Should a Homebuyer Waive the Home Inspection? Risks Explained by Your Rochester, MN Home Inspector

Here’s the story.

In this competitive market, homebuyers are overwhelmed and exhausted by the home-buying process, even before they buy a house. Because of low inventory, sellers see multiple offers on their homes when they list them. This is good for the seller but bad for the homebuyer. There’s a trend that the inspectors at HomePro Inspections have noticed: many homebuyers, in an attempt to make their offer look as good as possible, are offering way more than the asking price and waiving any home inspection contingencies. While this strategy may sound reasonable, it can create a host of potential problems and future expenses for the homebuyer.

 Your home is most likely the largest purchase you will ever make.

First-time homebuyers can sometimes be grossly unprepared for homeownership and what awaits them after buying a home. New homebuyers sometimes forget that when something breaks, there is no landlord to call; it’s not mom and dad’s house; it’s on you to fix any problems that arise.

Paying more than the asking price and waiving the home inspection can add to the financial burden and increase the risk of unexpected or latent repair costs. While a professional home inspector does not guarantee that everything will be perfect, a home inspection will greatly reduce the risk of unexpected surprises.

The risks of waiving the home inspection can be many.

An article by msn.com states that 77% of homebuyers face unexpected repair costs in their first year of ownership.

 A half-hour showing or walkthrough with your dad or uncle, “who knows things about construction,” doesn’t provide you with a complete and overall objective condition of the home. I’m not knocking dads and uncles, but I have seen dads who work in the construction business point out everything that’s “not up to code.” That’s fine, but it’s irrelevant for every home except brand-new construction. Why? As construction materials and practices continue to evolve, so do the codes that pertain to them. On average, codes change about every three years. That is why perceived code compliance is not part of a home inspection. 

 Spending a few hundred dollars on a home inspection and a few hours with a home inspector will open your eyes to potential safety, health, and financial risks associated with purchasing a new home. Home inspectors have the knowledge and tools to provide an honest, non-biased condition of the home on inspection day.

 There is another method to consider to get a seller to agree to a home inspection.

There are ways around waiving a home inspection contingency without losing an offer. One option is to present your offer to include a home inspection “for informational purposes only.” This does not hold the seller responsible for any repairs or costs, which can help make them more receptive to your offer. If there are any major issues pointed out by your home inspector, you can still back out if your realtor has worded your contract appropriately.

 There are numerous benefits to having a “Walk and Talk” consultation.

We offer a one-hour consultation called “Walk and Talk.” Your home inspector will walk through the home, looking for anything major. You bring your own camera and notepad. It’s like bringing your dad to look at the house, except it is with a home inspector. We also share advice and point out maintenance items you may want to address.

 A post-sale inspection is also an option.

A post-purchase inspection is another option we see from homebuyers. After the home inspection, your home inspector will help you understand the report by explaining any noted issues or listed required repairs.

 The bottom line is that spending a few hundred dollars, whether part of your contingency or not, is always a wise investment in home ownership. No one wants to buy a money pit. Even if there are no major issues, you may learn about basic home maintenance, what makes your home tick, and maybe even create a little “honey do” list.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Will Closing Air Vents Help Cool Other Rooms?

Many misconceptions about home ownership have developed over time. Some are carryovers from the past and don’t account for our modern and more sophisticated heating and cooling systems. Closing air vents in one part of the house or in a room may seem like a good way to manage the conditioned air in your home, but you may potentially damage your HVAC system. The professionals at HomePro Inspections offer the following information for you to consider before you change the air distribution in your home by closing air vents.

 An air vent located on the floor

 What are air vents for?

Your home may have air vents in various places. Some may be located on the floor or near the ceiling. Regardless of where they are located, they are there to supply air to the rooms in your home.

 Adequate air circulation throughout your home plays a big part in managing your home's moisture and humidity levels during the hot and humid summer. Keeping your air vents open as designed is key to allowing your HVAC system to work efficiently and as intended.

 Can closing your vents cause damage?

It's not a good idea to try to control air flow in your home by closing air vents. Creating an imbalance can have unintended consequences and damage your HVAC system.

Damage to AC cooling coils—Restricting airflow by closing your vents will back up cold air in the air duct system, which may cause your air conditioning coils to freeze and damage your A/C system.

 Damage to ductwork—Pressure can build up in your ductwork and prevent proper airflow. Static pressures may result in leaks and openings in your ductwork. Leaks prevent conditioned air from getting to where you want it to go.

 Reduced energy efficiency—Closed vents cause air pressure to buildup, which can redirect airflow to other parts of your home. Conditioned air that leaks into spaces like attics and crawlspaces wastes energy and reduces efficiency.

 Carbon Monoxide—Pressure and heat build-up during the heating season could cause a cracked heat exchanger, which can leak carbon monoxide into your home.

 As home inspectors, we encounter some of these scenarios during a home inspection. A story I share with my clients helps to illustrate how closing events can be a problem.

 When inspecting the home, I occasionally walk into the basement and notice it is cold, damp, or musty-smelling, and the air feels thick with humidity. During the summer, when it is humid, that cold air will hold a lot of moisture. Closing the basement vents prevents the air from circulating through the air conditioning system, causing the air to stagnate. Since cold air is denser than warm air, it has to find its way upstairs and into an air return on the main floor, which is difficult and very inefficient.

 People close vents in the basement because they feel it is too cold, and they don't need the air conditioning downstairs as much as they do upstairs. Closing the vents, however, can create other problems. High humidity can lead to potential organic growth, such as mildew or mold. Carpeting and other surfaces in the basement will feel damp and uncomfortable.

 Summary

Your HVAC system is designed to provide conditioned air throughout the home, and altering that flow can lead to issues and potential problems. If you are experiencing areas of discomfort in your home, it may be best to contact a professional to check the HVAC system and ensure it is running properly and moving air efficiently throughout the entire house.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Resolving a Water Heater Leak

Once in a while, our home inspectors come across a leaking water heater during a home inspection. What we typically find are leaks at one of three locations: at the temperature pressure relief valve, at the bottom (which may indicate corrosion within the water heater tank), or at the water heater's incoming and outgoing water lines. Regardless of the cause, it’s crucial to repair a leak as soon as possible to avoid damage to the water heater and its surroundings.

 The water heater’s temperature pressure relief valve is leaking.

 Why is my water heater leaking?

A modern water heater's average life expectancy is between 8 and 12 years, but we’ve seen water heaters fail in the five- to six-year range. Recently, I did an inspection, and a water heater from 1987 was still functioning properly and not leaking. Below are some points to help guide you through determining the source of a leak and potentially how to fix it.

 Age and high water pressure are the most common reasons for a water heater to start leaking. Over time, mineral deposits build up in your water heater and cause tank corrosion. High water pressure can also cause valves to weaken and leak over time. Other times, internal components or water lines can fail due to age.

 First, shut off all sources of energy.

Before you start working on your water heater, it is a good idea to shut off all energy sources. Turn off the water heater water supply valve, disconnect the electrical power, and turn off the gas valve. These should all be within reach of your water heater.

 Most water heaters will have a valve at the supply side that you can close to shut off the water source. There should also be a gas valve close to the gas controller on your water heater. If your water heater is electric or has a forced draft blower, it will either have an electrical switch or connect directly to a wall outlet.

 Do you need to drain the water heater?

If your water leak is substantial, you will want to drain your water heater to prevent further leakage or water damage. There is a drain valve at the bottom of your water heater. Hook up a garden hose and run it to a floor drain or the exterior of your home. Draining your water heater should be part of your annual maintenance program. It will allow the removal of any loose sediment at the bottom of the tank.

 Determining the source of your water heater leak.

If the water heater is leaking at the bottom or if you only see water on the floor or in the drain pan below it, it may be old, and the tank may be rusted. A leaking tank means that you will need to replace your water heater.

The water heater tank is leaking onto the floor.

 Check the Temperature Pressure Relief Valve (TPRV).

If your water leak is coming from the temperature pressure relief valve, there are a couple of things you can try. Occasionally, a piece of debris may get stuck in the valve and not allow it to close completely. You can open and close the valve several times to see if it seals.

Temperature Pressure Relief Valve

 If the valve does not seal, you must replace the TPRV. This is a relatively simple procedure, but you may want to hire a plumber.

 What if the water heater’s water supply inlet or outlet pipes are leaking?

Sometimes, the inlet and outlet water supply pipes will leak. Typically, these connections have to be redone to stop the leak. Hire a plumber if you are uncomfortable working with water lines.

 Leaking inlet/outlet water lines.

 Water leaking from the drain valve is a concern.

As mentioned earlier, your water heater has a drain valve. Similar to the temperature pressure relief valve, this seal can sometimes catch a small piece of debris and not seal properly. Open and close the valve several times to try to get it to seal properly. If it does not seal, you may want to replace the valve. Again, you may want to hire a plumber if you are uncomfortable doing it yourself.

 Annual water heater maintenance is essential.

Drain your water heater annually. As stated before, your water heater can be drained by attaching a garden hose to the valve and routing it to a floor drain or to the exterior of your home. Draining your water heater will help flush out any sediment on the bottom of the tank and reduce the probability of corrosion.

 Check your temperature pressure relief valve and discharge tube; the discharge tube attached to your temperature pressure relief valve typically terminates within 12 inches of the floor. Inspect the bottom of the tube for any water and/or leaks on the floor.

Water heater discharge tube and drain valve.

 Summary

Leaks in water heaters are common and, in most cases, easy to fix. However, if you cannot fix your leaks, you may need to replace your water heater.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Building Codes and Home Inspections

For most folks, building codes can be confusing, and there are many misconceptions about how they apply. The professionals at HomePro Inspections would like to dispel some of the fallacies of building codes and explain how these codes are used in a home inspection.

 Over the years, I have had first-time home buyers come to inspections and tell me that their dad said I needed to ensure everything in the house was “up to code.” I have also had dads attending home inspections who are quick to point out everything that is not up to code based on their experience as contractors. I get it. I'm a dad, and they want to ensure I'm looking out for their kids.

 Which Building Code is Used?

The building codes in effect at the time of the home's construction, compared to the most recent codes, can differ significantly. Usually, I explain to people that the building codes, on average, update around every three years. They can vary from state to state, county to county, and city to city. I also explained to them that, in reality, the term building code means “minimum requirements.”

 For example, my home, built in 1959, has four-inch studs in the exterior walls. At the time, this was the code. Today's code requires six-inch studs in exterior walls, but that doesn’t mean the four-inch studs in my exterior walls aren’t “up to code.” Regardless of the age of the house, there’s a good chance there will be future updates to building codes as building processes change and technologies advance.

 IRC Codes

Today’s modern IRC codes, which include plumbing, electrical, HVAC, building, and fuel gas, are relatively new. Unless you live in a large city or metropolitan area and your home was built before 1975, there's a good chance that building codes may not have been enforced. Yes, there were standards back then, but government enforcement of codes was uncommon in rural areas and small towns.

 It wasn’t that long ago that houses and the systems within them were not very complicated. Simple construction practices, however, sometimes resulted in disastrous outcomes. Electrical codes, for example, were some of the first written. Due to the dangers of electrical fires, inspection of electrical systems and strict enforcement were required. For similar safety reasons, some parts of the country required permits for heating systems. On the other hand, after WWII, rather than building codes, some jurisdictions had inspectors who looked at the quality of the work or any significant oversights during home construction.

 Home Inspections

Our job as home inspectors is to observe, document, and educate our clients on the home's condition. When we perform a home inspection, we must look at the home's components and how they perform according to today's standards. Over the years, we have learned things we know are acceptable, and things we know are not safe or dangerous. Lead plumbing might be functional but not safe. Products made of asbestos might be functional but not safe. Old electrical systems may be functional but pose a safety threat to the home and its occupants.

 Consider many of the items found during a home inspection in relation to the house you're buying. You cannot expect every house that was built in the mid-1940s to be free of lead paint, knob-and-tube wiring, or products that may contain asbestos. Nevertheless, your home inspector will highlight these items in your inspection report.

 If realtors educated their clients before conducting a home inspection, they could alleviate a lot of confusion. We do home inspections to provide the buyer with information to help ensure they understand the home's condition. Once they understand this information, they can base their decisions on whether or not the home meets their needs.

 Summary

Home inspectors must look at every home and consider whether it could benefit from upgrading to today's standards. Does the seller have to upgrade anything based on negotiations? There are some exceptions, but in general, the answer is no.

 How people react to the information we provide in a home inspection can be interesting. Someone once told me they wouldn't purchase the home until a 1/4-inch tear in a window screen was repaired. I also had a person, after reviewing the almost 50 items on the summary page, respond, “Cool, I have some projects.”

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Energy-Efficient Home Upgrades

We are becoming increasingly environmentally conscious in our decisions about how we live. Energy efficiency in your home is not only beneficial to your wallet, but it is also better for our planet. Energy-efficient upgrades will help lower your utility bills and make your home a more comfortable place to live. The following are some ideas as to how you can lower your energy usage and overall impact on the environment.

 Insulation upgrades for an energy-efficient home year-round.

Adding more insulation to meet today's standards helps keep your home at a comfortable indoor temperature while reducing heating and cooling costs. Extra insulation added to crawl spaces, walls, and attics will prevent heat transfer. Your home will stay warmer in the winter months and cooler in the summer months. Choose the product that meets your needs. Various insulation materials are available, such as fiberglass, cellulose, or recycled materials.

 Renewable energy systems provide many benefits.

Although more expensive, consider adding solar panels or geothermal to help offset your energy consumption. This is a significant investment, so you will want to do research to ensure you choose the right home system.

 Seal the ductwork to prevent energy loss.

It is required that the ductwork in newer homes be sealed to prevent energy from escaping into unconditioned spaces. If your home's ductwork is accessible in the attic, crawl space, or basement, it is well worth sealing all joints with aluminized duct sealing tape or products.

 Install low-flow water fixtures.

Installing low-flow water fixtures in your showers, sinks, and toilets will help you save water. Many retrofit products are available to best meet your family's needs. Installing something as simple as a dual flush valve on your toilet will save you thousands of gallons of water a year.

 Seal air leaks.

Take some time to inspect the seals around your doors and windows. You will often find areas at the door sweep or threshold where you can see daylight under the door. Replace any worn or damaged door seals. Windows should operate smoothly and maintain a tight seal. Replace any damaged seals or latching hardware.

 Upgrade your windows.

If you live in an older home with single-pane windows, consider upgrading them to newer, more thermally efficient dual-pane windows. This is expensive, but your home will stay warmer and quieter.

 Invest in a smart or programmable thermostat.

Smart or programmable thermostats will help you save energy by allowing you to automatically adjust your home's temperature based on your lifestyle. These types of thermostats have become more cost-effective, and they’ll save you money on energy costs.

 Plant trees and bushes.

Trees and bushes provide shade from the sun, which can help keep your home naturally cool and comfortable. Although it may take years to realize the benefits of trees and bushes, they are worth the investment. Not only can they help keep your home cooler, but they can also enhance the curb appeal of your house.

 Switch to energy-efficient lightbulbs.

LED-type bulbs have dropped in price, making them very affordable and cost-effective. LED lighting consumes significantly less energy than traditional incandescent lightbulbs and has a much longer lifespan. Switching to LED lighting can save up to 75% on lighting energy consumption.

 Maintain heating and cooling systems.

Most manufacturers recommend annual HVAC (furnace, air conditioner) and water heater tune-ups. Some cities offer plans through the utilities to make it easy for you. Keeping your HVAC and water heater running in tip-top shape will save you money and outweigh annual maintenance costs.

 Upgrade older HVAC systems.

If your home has older, less efficient HVAC equipment, consider upgrading to higher-efficiency models. Newer appliances are worth the money. They will keep your home comfortable and reduce your energy costs.

 Upgrade your appliances.

Replacing old and inefficient washers and dryers with newer Energy Star-certified models can save substantial energy. Newer appliances such as refrigerators, freezers, washing machines, dryers, and dishwashers will also use less energy and perform similarly.

 Summary

Incorporating new energy-efficient upgrades into your home can enhance your quality of life. Newer appliances impact our environment less and save you money in the long run. Start with small things like LED lighting and work your way up to more expensive projects over time. Consciously implementing the many benefits of energy efficiency will be beneficial to you and the environment, as well as helping contribute to a more sustainable future.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Should I Attend My Home Inspection - Buyers and Sellers

If you are buying a home, the short answer is yes. At HomePro Inspections, we encourage our clients to attend the home inspection. We tell people up front that we are there to observe, document, and educate you on the home's condition.

 We feel that education and one-on-one time with your home inspector are key to helping you make one of the biggest decisions of your life. If you have questions before your home inspection, prepare a list. You can communicate those issues beforehand or ask your home inspector during the inspection. We feel that a better-educated home buyer will be a better-educated homeowner.

 Home Buyers

Being present at the home inspection provides several benefits:

·         Observing the home inspector while they are inspecting key components of your home will allow you to better understand any concerns or issues found during your inspection. It allows you to ask questions and gives your home inspector the opportunity to share solutions or insights.

·         Sometimes, a list of issues on an inspection report can be overwhelming. If homeownership is new to you, your inspector can help you understand the real issues and simple maintenance-type projects.

·         If you have a list of questions ahead of time, your home inspector will gladly address them during the inspection.

 Home Sellers

If we are pre-listing a home inspection for a seller, then yes, it is okay for them to be there. They can discuss their concerns with the home inspector, as well as any historical information. Our job as a pre-listing inspection is to provide our clients with those issues that will help prepare their homes for sale, eliminate any issues on their terms, and help them sell their home faster.

 The home seller, however, should not attend a buyer’s inspection. They may interfere with the process by “trying to help” or cause the home buyer to feel uneasy about asking the home inspector questions. Whether intentional or not, the home seller’s attendance can, and usually does, inhibit communications and the process.

 This can have a very negative impact. Over the years, we have encountered situations where the home seller has dissuaded a potential buyer due to excessive information, defensiveness, or providing information completely unrelated to the home inspection process.

 On the scheduled inspection day, the home seller should have their home ready for inspection as best as possible, and the home inspector should have access to all areas of the house. Although a home inspection may uncover some defects in the home, the home seller should not fear the process. Our job is to provide the home buyer with peace of mind and set expectations based on the findings.

 Things to remember

The buyer hired a home inspector to provide them with an objective, unbiased inspection of the home, answer their questions, and provide feedback. If we have a seller hovering around while the inspection is taking place, this could lead to feelings of suspicion. Home sellers can sometimes distract from or hide things that could potentially be an issue. We must remember that the home inspector is working for the homebuyer. The home inspector must be able to focus on their task and document any potential issues or flaws with the home.

 As we inspect someone's home, we truly understand that this is where they raised their family, and that there are some emotional attachments. If the home seller is present and they hear negative issues regarding their home, they may feel defensive, argumentative, or just try to justify or explain away any defects we may find. We often hear, “Oh, that's been like that since we moved in.” Just because it's always been that way doesn't mean it's right.

 Becoming familiar with the home

During the home inspection, the buyers spend time with the inspector and learn about the house. They also start to visualize their life in that new home, including where the furniture will go and what they will need to do. They start to imagine and develop an emotional investment in their new home.

 Having the home sellers present makes the buyer feel more like a guest, which interferes with their ability to visualize their life and belongings in that house. When a person can’t invest emotionally in a house, they fail to make the connection that this could be their new home.

 Summary

As previously stated, our job is to observe, document, and educate the home buyer regarding their potential new home. In addition to defects, your home inspector will point out positive aspects of the home. Attending the home inspection allows you to gain valuable insight that you do not get from the inspection report alone.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Home Inspections - How They Benefit Buyers and Sellers

Home inspections are crucial when buying or selling a home. They offer an objective evaluation of the property's condition during the inspection.

 Traditionally, most people feel that home inspections only benefit home buyers. This is not true. Prelisting inspections for home sellers provide equal value by providing them with valuable information regarding their home.

  The home inspection gives buyers insight into any issues affecting their decision. Home sellers benefit by gaining information that allows them to make repairs or price their homes accordingly.

 Home inspection benefits for the home buyer

For most people, buying a home is the single largest investment they will ever make. A home inspection gives you the information you need to make a knowledgeable decision as to whether or not the home is a wise investment.

 Finding hidden issues: The home inspection provides an objective, detailed evaluation of a property's condition. Home inspectors look at everything, from the foundation to the roof. Most of these issues may not be visible to the untrained eye. Costly surprises and safety issues can be revealed and identified, such as radon, mold, or hazardous materials that were used in the home’s construction.

 Documentation: Your home inspection provides valuable documentation listing not only issues but also describing the systems and components of your home. A walk-through with your home inspector at the inspection will provide you with verbal information to support this document.

 Negotiation tool: A home inspection gives you valuable insight into your potential new home. You can use it to support negotiations with the seller regarding requested repairs or a price adjustment before closing the deal. Your realtor will help guide you in the negotiation process.

 Future planning: You can use your inspection report as a road map or “honey-do” list for any future maintenance issues or improvements. Using the inspection report summary, you can prioritize how you would like to proceed with your projects.

 Insurance and resale: An inspection can sometimes affect your homeowner’s insurance rates and resale value. Some insurance companies require a home inspection. If, for example, you negotiate a new roof, it may positively affect your insurance rates and increase your home’s value for resale.

 Benefits of home inspections for home sellers

Typically, home inspections benefit home buyers in a real estate transaction. However, a pre-listing inspection also benefits the home seller. Pre-listing inspections allow the seller to address any repairs or improvements on their terms, taking the pressure off of negotiations once a buyer presents an offer. In the end, it can be a much smoother process for both parties.

 Transparency: Transparency is important when selling your home. Having a pre-listing inspection shows potential buyers that you are committed to a fair and open transaction. Transparency can lead to trust and confidence among home buyers.

 Pricing accuracy: Pre-listing inspection information helps sellers determine a more accurate price for their home. It also helps the homeowner to understand the property's actual condition. There may be things that a homeowner may not see or even know about, even though they’ve lived there. A realistic valuation of your home will attract more home buyers and reduce negotiation pressures.

 Marketability: Research shows that homes that receive a pre-listing inspection sell faster. Buyers perceive less risk when presented with inspection information upfront. This will streamline the sale of your home and result in a shorter listing period.

 Mitigating risk: By identifying any potential issues in advance, you can minimize your chances of any last-minute surprises. A pre-listing inspection also reduces the potential for buyers to request unforeseen repairs or reductions in price.

 Negotiations and reduced contingencies: A pre-listing inspection allows home sellers to negotiate from a position of strength. By providing a comprehensive home inspection report, home sellers reduce the potential for contingencies in the sale. By addressing issues in advance, home sellers will be more confident and less stressed out when selling their homes.

 Summary

A pre-listing home inspection is a wise investment. It will help you sell your home faster and with fewer contingencies. It puts you in control by being upfront and transparent about the condition of your home. If you are thinking of selling your home, make a wise investment and get a pre-listing home inspection.

 At Home Pro Inspections, our inspectors document maintenance issues, hidden defects, repairs, and safety issues. And, because we believe a home inspection shouldn’t just point out concerns and issues, we also highlight a home's positive aspects.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Cleaning Your Air Conditioner

It is springtime, and as the weather gets warmer, we should take some time to inspect our air conditioners. Air conditioners work hard to keep our homes comfortably cool during the summer, so let’s take some steps to ensure they can work correctly when the weather turns hot!

 An example of dirty air conditioner coils

As our home inspectors are busy with the spring market, we see more and more air conditioners that need a good cleaning. Over time, debris and dirt accumulate in the air conditioner coils. We see this more in cases where an air conditioner condenser is very close to where a dryer vent exhausts at a home's exterior. 

 Dirty air conditioner coils make your air conditioner work harder and less efficiently, which wastes electricity and leads to higher utility bills. A little bit of effort on your part will help your AC system work better to keep your home cool in the summer months.

 The importance of cleaning the air conditioner coils

The coils on your air conditioner condenser are vital to the proper performance of your air conditioning system. These coils perform heat transfer, which is essential for effectively cooling your home’s interior. When these coils are dirty and obstructed, airflow is restricted, and the heat transfer process is inefficient, resulting in reduced efficiency.

 Dirty coils also strain the HVAC system's components, causing them to work harder and wear out sooner. This leads to higher energy usage, more frequent breakdowns, and a shorter overall life for your air conditioning system. 

 How often should I clean my air conditioner coils?

If you want your air conditioner to run at peak efficiency, you should clean the coils at least once a year. I recommend doing a major cleaning in the fall after the weather cools down. That way, you are ready for the summer cooling season with only minor maintenance in the spring. 

 You may have to clean your system more frequently if you live in an area where there is a lot of airborne dust, chaff from agriculture, trees that shed fluffy seeds (like cottonwoods), or, possibly, if the dryer vent is close to your air conditioner’s condenser coils.

 Steps for cleaning your air conditioner coils

There is no one right way to clean your air conditioner coils. The method below is straightforward, so feel free to give it a try and develop a process that works best for you.

 ·         Turn off the power on your air conditioning system. To avoid accidents and prevent electrocution, it is always best to turn off the power source for your air conditioner. There should be a disconnect tumble switch or a breaker within a few feet of your air conditioner condenser unit. You may also shut off the breaker in the electrical panel.   

·         Remove the outer covers on your air conditioner. Typically, screws hold the covers in place on most units. Remove the screws and covers to access the coils fully. Carefully place the parts you remove somewhere to the side so you will not lose or damage them.

·         Clean the air conditioner coils and fins. Remove any loose debris and particles from the coils and fins using a soft-bristled brush and compressed air. The fins are extremely fragile and can be easily bent, so use a light touch when cleaning. 

·         Apply a coil cleaner solution. Cleaning solutions are available commercially, or if you want, you can make your own by combining 50% water and 50% vinegar in a spray bottle. Spray the coils and fins, allowing the solution to sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Lightly brush the debris away. Rinse the coils with water. Repeat the process on any stubborn areas, and rinse when clean.

·         Allow the coils to dry. After you are satisfied that the coils are clean, let them air dry. Clean and replace the covers before replacing them. 

·         Turn the power back on. After everything is dry and you have reassembled any parts you removed, turn the power back on to your air conditioning system.

 Summary

Cleaning your air conditioner coils is relatively easy for most people. If you are uncomfortable with this project, call an HVAC technician or your favorite handyperson.

 Keeping your air conditioning coils clean is crucial for maintaining your system's efficiency and prolonging its life. In addition to cleaning your air conditioning coils, it is recommended that you have your HVAC system serviced annually. Annual service will keep your system running smoothly when needed and save you money on your utility bills.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942 or by email, and you can use our convenient online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointmen

My Garage Door Won’t Close!

Everyone in the house is ready to head off to work or school. You step out into the garage and hit the remote for the garage door. The door opens just fine. You back out of the garage and hit the remote to close the garage door, but it won't close! Now what?

 The garage door will not close completely.

 There can be many reasons why your garage door won't close or open when you hit the remote. Sensors, tracks, and rollers may be out of alignment. You could have a broken tension spring, or the batteries in your remote could simply be dead.

 No one ever considers all of the components involved in a garage door's proper operation. Your garage door and garage door opener have many moving parts, and if one of those parts gets out of alignment or malfunctions, it will not operate properly.

 Let's examine why your garage door and garage door opener might not work.

 Safety Sensors

One of the primary culprits for garage doors not working correctly is the safety sensors. They are on either side of the garage door and are typically mounted to the tracks. They should be located about 6 inches from the ground. These sensors provide safety if something blocks the sensor’s path, such as when the garage door is trying to go down.

 Safety sensor: a green light indicates the beam is not blocked.

 If anything blocks the light beam between the two sensors, the door will not go down. Check to make sure there is nothing blocking the beam. Occasionally, a sensor may get bumped and misaligned. Another potential problem could be a broken wire at one of the sensors. Sometimes, spider webs and dirt may obstruct the lens of a sensor. This can be easily remedied by cleaning the lens with a soft, damp cloth.

 I had an issue at one of my homes. If I tried to close the garage door at a particular time in the morning, the sun would shine on the sensor and cause it to malfunction. After a thorough inspection of all of the components, I found that if I shaded that sensor from the sunlight, the door worked fine.

 Batteries and remotes

If batteries power your car's remote control, ensure they are not dead and replace them if necessary.

 Tracks and rollers

Once you have performed an inspection of the sensors, you will want to check the garage door track and rollers. If there is any misalignment or loose components, your garage door may need to be fixed and closed. After carefully inspecting the whole track and its components, you must ensure everything is completely aligned. Make a note of whether or not the rollers and track need to be greased. If rollers are worn or corroded, consider replacing them. Call a professional if you feel there are any significant alignment or roller issues.

 Garage door tracks and rollers.

 Tension springs and cables

Above your garage door, you will see a large shaft that goes from one side to the other. One or two large torsion springs will be on this shaft, with cables leading from the shaft to the bottom of the garage door on each side. This torsion spring counterbalances the weight of the garage door. Older garage doors may have a tension spring alongside the horizontal garage door rails.

 Perform an inspection of these springs and cables. If you have a broken spring, it should be visible. If a spring is broken, there may not be enough counterbalance to allow the garage door opener to lift the door.

 Note: If you are ever sitting around watching TV and you hear a loud, large sound like a meteor hitting your house, it may be that a torsion spring broke at your garage door. A broken torsion spring releases a lot of stored energy. If it goes, you will hear a loud, ominous boom and vibration.

 
Garage door torsion springs and disconnect latch.

Garage door disconnect latch

If you have a garage door opener attached to your garage door, there will be a disconnect latch on the opener track where a metal linkage connects to the garage. This linkage is usually a short section of rope with a red handle.

 In a power outage, you can pull this red rope handle to disengage the garage door from the door opener track. This allows you to lift the garage door manually. If someone has accidentally disengaged this mechanism, you may have to reset it so it engages with the garage door track chain.

 Garage door auto-reverse sensitivity settings

Your garage door opener will have adjustment screws on the sides or back of the unit. These sensitivity screws can be used to adjust the travel of your garage door as well as how much force it will exert before it reverses direction. This safety setting can be adjusted so that if the garage door comes into contact with something while traveling downward, it will reverse and go back before causing damage. Newer garage door openers set their sensitivity by performing a sequence on the system. Instructions are usually printed on the garage door opener.

 Loose drive chain or belt

If your drive chain or belt is loose, it may cause the door not to operate smoothly. This uneven motion may trip your sensitivity sensors, which will not allow the door to close. These sensors are labeled for up force, down force, up travel, and down travel. A properly adjusted chain or drive belt will have approximately 1/2 to 1-inch sag.

 Summary

After carefully inspecting the items listed above, you must decide whether you can resolve the issue yourself or need to call a garage door specialist. Things such as broken springs and cables are best left to a professional. Taking time to periodically inspect your garage door, garage door opener, and its components will help keep it running smoothly when needed.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website today to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us at (507) 202-8942 or by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

The Importance of Grading and Drainage

Your home's exterior envelope is your first line of defense against the weather and elements. The roof, gutters, downspouts, siding, and windows are designed to keep water and wind out of your home. The foundation gives you a sturdy footing for your home to sit on. Proper grading and drainage will direct water away from your foundation to help keep it dry.

 Poor grading and drainage can result in accumulated water

 What are grading and drainage?

Grading refers to how the soils around your home are sloped away from the foundation to help shed and direct water away from it. After the construction of the foundation, soil is backfilled and shaped to achieve a proper slope.

 Grading and drainage around a home

 It may not be obvious, but driveways, landscaping, patios, and sidewalks have (or should have) a slope away from the foundation. Ideally, a 5% slope should be maintained around your home. Grading will vary from home to home, depending on the lay of the land.

 Drainage refers to the swales, channels, and ditches on the surface that direct water from your roof and walls away from your home. Tile systems, drains, and storm sewers are sub-surface methods that may be used to take the water away to storage ponds, streams, rivers, or other specified locations.

 Why are grading and drainage important?

When water pools around your home's foundation due to poor grading and drainage, many issues may present themselves.

 A water puddle next to the foundation

 ·         Hydrostatic Pressure

Saturated soils will apply hydrostatic pressure against the foundation walls. Hydrostatic pressure is the force of a static fluid due to the forces of gravity. Water pushing against a foundation wall will find its way through cracks and openings, eventually accumulating in your basement. 

·         Frost and Freezing

In the winter here in the northern United States, the ground freezes, sometimes 4 to 6 feet below the surface. Some areas have soils and clays that expand dramatically when frozen. If these soils are saturated with water, they can expand to the point of cracking and displacing foundations and heaving sidewalks, patios, and driveways. Freeze/thaw cycles can result in spalling, chipping, and displacement.

·         Water Intrusion

Water always seeks the lowest point and the path of least resistance if not directed away properly, and that lowest point may be your basement or crawl space. Repeated or continuous water issues in your basement may result in dampness and mold.

·         Lawn, Foliage, and Mosquitoes

Pooling water will kill your grass and landscaping foliage. A wet and water-logged lawn will get mushy and muddy with activity from playing or mowing. Stagnant puddles will attract insects and provide conditions for mosquitoes to breed. The last thing we need is more mosquitoes!

 Summary

Our home inspectors inspect grading and drainage during the home inspection. We assess gutters and downspouts and how that water flows away from the foundation. It can be difficult to evaluate grading and drainage in the winter if the grade is snow-covered. We typically recommend that the homeowner pay attention to the water flow during the snow melt or during a spring or summer rainstorm.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us today at (507) 202-8942, send us anemail, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment.

Don’t Neglect Home Maintenance

If you haven’t figured it out yet, owning a home comes with a lot of responsibility. Previously, your parents or landlord took care of the many maintenance issues. Now that you own a home, proper and timely routine home maintenance is your responsibility. To help with that, the specialists at HomePro Inspections offer a few tips and guidelines for you to consider.  

 Replacing deteriorated caulk at a window

 To prevent costly issues down the road, it is crucial that you stay on top of minor repairs and home maintenance items. Our home inspectors commonly document these types of issues, which we refer to as “deferred maintenance.” Staying on top of issues will keep your home safe and in good condition, while ignoring them only makes the problem worse over time.

 Plumbing

Small leaks in faucets, toilets, or pipes might seem insignificant, but over time, they add up. Water is wasted, leading to higher water and sewer bills. Water leaks can also lead to mold growth, rot, and structural damage. Resolving these issues in a timely manner will prevent more costly repairs in the future.

 Small leaks can result in major issues

Electrical

Electrical issues should never be ignored. Frequently tripping circuit breakers or blowing fuses, lighting that flickers or dims, and sparking at switches or outlets are all signs of potential problems. Older homes may have faulty wiring and overloaded circuits. Electrical issues can result in electrocution or fires. Electrical issues are serious and should be resolved by a licensed electrician.

 A charred electrical outlet

Heating and air conditioning

The comfort of your home and its air quality are dependent on properly maintained heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems. A neglected HVAC system can lead to higher energy costs due to reduced efficiency. Breakdowns typically happen during peak heating or cooling seasons, when you depend on them the most. Dirty air filters cause your system's air handler to work harder and waste electricity. Our home inspectors typically recommend annual maintenance and servicing to keep your HVAC system running smoothly and efficiently.

 A dirty HVAC air filter

 Pests

Ants, rodents, bats, and other critters can cause hidden damage to your home. Carpenter ants can destroy wood within your walls. Mice will chew on wiring, tunnel in your insulation, build nests, and leave hair, urine, and droppings behind. Bats may roost in your attic, leaving piles of droppings and carcasses behind. These issues can damage your home’s structure and result in health issues. Regular inspection and maintenance can identify if you need to hire a professional before these pests can cause major problems.

 Rodent/bat droppings and insulation on an attic access cover

Foundation and structure

Sometimes cracks in your walls, ceilings, or foundation are due to seasonal changes. Your home’s components expand and contract when we have cold and dry versus hot and humid conditions. Sometimes, these cracks are an indication of more serious structural problems. Inspect your home at least twice a year, looking for new cracks. Take a photo and compare them over time. Structural issues can lead to costly repairs if not addressed in a timely manner.

 A step crack in a foundation

Exterior

Regular maintenance of the exterior of your home will help prevent costly repairs and preserve your home’s curb appeal. The outside of your home is exposed to the elements. Every season affects the siding, wood, paint, caulk, etc. Damaged or deteriorated components of your exterior can lead to water infiltration. Repeated exposure will cause rot and potential damage to the structure. Our home inspectors recommend that the exterior of your home be inspected a couple of times a year and any issues quickly resolved to prevent further damage. A little paint and caulk can go a long way toward keeping the elements from damaging your home.

 Deteriorated and missing paint on siding and trim

 Roof

The first line of defense against the elements is your home’s roofing systems. Shingles, vents, flashings, gutters, and downspouts are all subject to wear, damage, and deterioration. Regularly inspect your roofing systems, especially after storms and after the snow melts. As important as roofs are, most people pay little to no attention to them until they see a leak. Sometimes, leaks are internal and go unnoticed until serious damage has occurred.

 Damaged and missing shingles, along with deteriorated roof decking and vent flashings

 Summary

Keeping your home properly maintained is a never-ending responsibility for a homeowner. Ignoring the little things can quickly add up to big things over time. Protecting your investment and keeping it looking good helps your home hold its value and keep your family safe. Most home maintenance is relatively easy and simple. If you can’t do it yourself, hire a handyman or professional to do the repairs.

 At HomePro Inspections, our home inspectors are trained to inspect all areas of the home. Any issues found are documented in your home inspection report and recommended for resolution by yourself or a qualified professional.

 Visit our website to learn more or to schedule your home inspection in the Rochester, Owatonna, and Faribault, MN areas. You can contact us at (507) 202-8942 or by email, or use our online “Schedule Now” feature to schedule an appointment today.